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Shinjuku: all the lights in the world



There is a show reminds me of Shinjuku. It's called Midnight Diner: Tokyo Series. Midnight Diner is a Japanese TV drama on Netflix based on a manga (Japanese comic book) by Yaro Abe. I loved that show, though most people have never heard of it. The diner locates at a back-alley, the chef cooks up any dishes you want, as long as he has the ingredients. The show centers around the owner/chef's and his customer's lives, the good, the bad, everyday events, or a memory and how it loosely ties together with a dish. All their life events and memories are relatable and heartwarming. The intro of show starts with a car passing the streets of Kabukicho, Shinjuku. It always made me miss the lights and the noises. Though the show seems realistically portrait lives of many people's lives, Shinjuku has a dark side that tourists need to be aware of.


Shinjuku is one of the 23 wards in Tokyo. At day, it serves as the main hob for public transportation (trains and subways) with over 200 exits and a shopping district. At night, it transforms into a nightlife district for those who look something other than shopping. The streets are run by Yakuza still, the Japanese Mafia. Most bars are under ground, members only. With so many buildings and back alleys in Shinjuku, it is very easy to appear in public without anyone noticing.


Kabukicho is the entertainment and red-light district of Tokyo. Nowadays, it's also bustling with tourists coming for cheap food, all-you-can-drink beer, shopping, clubs, and... other purposes. Try to avoid any dark, empty alleys and strangers if you are alone. Even when walking on the main streets, you'll see some random guys come close and try to grab you to take you somewhere, just don't. It's easier to get way if you are with a group. Those people are usually from nearby bars (shady ones) trying to get people in to overcharge them on alcohol or to sell you other services. Just say no and walk away. Don't make eye contact, walk fast, don't stroll or you might find yourself surrounded by a group of young men and wake up the next day with an insane amount of charges not even the police can help you with. If alcohol is what you want, many restaurants in Kabukicho offer all-you-can-drink beer for like around 20 dollars.


There really are wayyyyy too many stores in Shinjuku, there are only a few suggestions:

  • Godzilla Roars: The famous Godzilla is a landmark of Hotel Gracery in Kabukicho. See this post here.

  • Robot Restaurant: It's a themed restaurant (think Medieval Times in the US) with robots, samurai, loud music, and neon lights.

  • Tokyo Mystery Circus: a themed escape room but with Hello Kitty, Lupin, prison guards, and snacks after you escape.

  • Omoide Yokocho (aka, Piss Alley): a cool place for photos because of its counter-serve stalls from the 40s.

  • Metropolitan Government Building: 2 observation decks for free to seeTokyo. See my other post here for details.

  • Yodobashi Camera: The oldest electronic store in Shinjuku. It has everything you need.

  • Takashimaya Department Store: One of the most famous department stores in Japan. Its Shinjuku location is the anchor store of the company. With 15 Floors of name brands and restaurants, Takashimaya is a must for local and tourists alike.

  • Bicqlo: a combination of Uniqlo and Big Camera, an electronic store that offers Tax-Free for those with foreign passport.

  • Don Quijote: another Tac-Free shop but with even bigger varieties of merchandise, from human/pet food to clothes to electronics to cosmetics to medical to toys/collectibles. A shopaholic's heaven.

  • Marui and Isetan: Women's and Men's clothing.

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